How To Adjust Car Mirrors To Avoid Blindspots
By Jim Baz
Such a great article. Bringing it up again!
Rear view mirrors are an indispensable accessory when driving any motor vehicle and despite their use in all cars, there is no standard way of adjusting them. Most drivers adjust the rearview mirror to encompass the rear window of the car and this is generally an acceptable way of doing so.
Some drivers though will bias the side-to-side angle of the rearview mirror so that a very small portion of the rear windshield trim is visible. In the case of left-hand drive cars, this would mean that the rearview mirror would be angled slightly to the right.
The majority or drivers will adjust their side-view mirrors with what we will call the narrow-angle view. This means that a fourth of the usable area of the mirror will show the side of the car being driven. This is done for the left and right side-view mirrors.
There is a school of thought though that promotes the wide-angle view. The theory is that this setting will eliminate the blind spots in your view to the rear. A car coming from the rear will first be seen in the rearview mirror and as it moves past your vehicle, that particular car will instantly show up in either the left or right side-view mirror.
Although it may seem like a new method, this teaching has been around since the late 60s but has not really caught on because it is disconcerting for the first few times that you try it out.
Here are the steps to set your mirrors to a wide-angle view.
1. Set your rear-view mirror in the normal way.
2. Lean your head all the way to the left so it touches the driver's window. Set your left side-view mirror so you can see the back corner of your car.
3. Lean in the opposite direction at the same distance and set the right side-view mirror as in step 2.
Set this way, you will have eliminated the blind spots in your car.
There are, however, vehicles with convex mirrors installed in them that give a wider view despite being adjusted in the traditional way. This mirrors have a faint dotted line in the outer third part which is angled, thus showing a wider view to the rear. However, not all cars have this type of side-view mirror since it is more expensive to produce.
Another mirror adjustment that is used involve the side mirrors pointing at the car's blind spots on the sides. They are tilted in combination with the rear view mirror so that as soon as a car moves close enough to the rear of the car where the headlight cannot be seen, the car becomes visible in the side view mirror. Basically drivers side + rear view + passenger side mirror are lined up to act like single wide angle mirror. The side mirrors are used to check the sides of the cars, not the rear.
What all these adjustment advice don't teach is that the driver must have, or develop, the situational awareness necessary to be a safe driver. You have to check your mirrors regularly and most specially when you are making a turn or lane change so that you are aware of objects and vehicles not only in front but also behind you. No amount of adjustment or gadgetry can compensate for dumb driving habits.
For more useful tips on automotive related topics visit our James Toyota dealership. We have wide selection of certified Toyota used cars, including used Toyota Highlander, Toyota accessories and new Toyota cars, including 2011 Toyota Rav4.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jim_Baz
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Sell Your Car Safely:
Common Sense and Planning Can Keep You Out of Trouble
Published: 03/23/2011 - by Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
People avoid selling their own cars because they don't want to deal with strangers. But it can be done safely.
A man who listed his car for sale on Craigslist is killed by a man who wanted to strip the turbocharger and other parts from the vehicle. A New York man lists his BMW online, only to be stabbed and stuffed into the car's trunk by an ex-con who arranged a meeting on the pretext of buying the vehicle.
Although such stories show the potential danger of private-party used-car sales, don't let these extreme cases deter you. You can safely sell your used car — and maximize its value — by taking the right preventive measures.
Craigslist, one of several sites that facilitate private-party car sales, says that its buyers and sellers complete billions of transactions with an "extremely low" incidence of violent crime. Still, selling your car does put you at risk of fraud, scams, robbery and possible personal attacks.
The safety advice in this article comes from the police and my own personal experience selling more than 50 cars from Edmunds' long-term test fleet. There's also another very knowledgeable but less obvious source of good tips: real-estate agents. They often meet strangers to arrange a sale and sometimes the transactions put them in vulnerable positions. Just like private-party car sellers.
The Big 4 Tips for Car-Selling Safety
1. Vet callers thoroughly. When Steve Goddard, former president of the California Association of Realtors, takes a call from someone he's never met, he makes sure the caller is serious about buying a property and isn't trying to lure him into a trap to rob him. "I ask them lots of questions about what they are looking for and what their needs are," he says. "The more I engage them in conversation, the more you get a feel for them."
2. Don't go to a meeting alone. It's that simple, says Rico Fernandez, a sergeant with the Long Beach Police Department in California. "Take someone with you. People are less apt to harm you if there is someone else there."
3. Meet in a public place. Goddard says that when he meets someone for the first time, he does so at his office. While you can't do that when you're selling a car, you can arrange to meet would-be buyers in a public place, such as a shopping mall parking lot.
4. Trust your gut. Qualifying callers is a combination of intuition and experience, Goddard says. And if you're not comfortable meeting with strangers under any circumstances, you should turn the sale over to an auto broker or trade in the vehicle. You'll have to accept that you might not get the best deal, but peace of mind is priceless. So is your life.
Screening 101
If you do a good job screening buyers before you meet them face-to-face, selling your car will go much more smoothly. Listing your car on Craigslist or Autotrader.com will bring e-mails, text messages and calls from interested parties. Use your intuition to spot anything suspicious about these prospective buyers:
Don't be overly eager for a sale or you might miss a warning sign. If a caller seems suspicious to you, simply hang up.
Only schedule a test-drive with serious buyers you are able to reach by phone. Invite questions when you talk with them. This prevents you from having to show the car to someone who isn't really interested, or someone you'd rather not deal with. If the caller doesn't seem to know what to ask, volunteer the basics about the car: year, make, model, color, number of doors, number of miles on the car and its key features.
Beware of professional buyers who just want to "flip" cars, which means reselling them quickly at a profit. Flippers bargain aggressively. You can usually identify these callers because they quickly want to get to your lowest selling price. If you have doubts, ask them if they're buying to resell. While flippers might not pose a hazard to your personal safety, it's better to avoid dealing with them.
Ask who is coming on the test-drive. Evasive answers might indicate that the caller is setting up a trap.
Tell the caller you will want to see a driver license before the test-drive. This might discourage anyone with criminal intentions from going any further.
On the Test-Drive
When you ask to see the buyer's driver license before the test-drive, make a copy of it, if possible, and leave it with a third party.
Have a friend or family member come along with you. If no one is available, at the very least let someone know where you are going and with whom you're meeting.
Take your cell phone with you so you can call for help if anything goes wrong. If you are suspicious and don't want the would-be buyer to know that, arrange a code word beforehand with a friend or family member. Using the code word will be your way of telling your friend you need help.
Meet prospective buyers during the day in a public area such as the parking lot of a mall. Park the car in a high traffic area where people can see you.
Don't leave any valuables in the car on the test-drive. Don't leave your wallet in the center console.
Accompany the buyer on the test-drive. This ensures that he can't just drive off with your car, never to be seen again. Furthermore, the buyer may be unfamiliar with the area and will need directions for the test-drive.
If for some reason you can't ride along, don't give your only car key to the prospective buyer. If the "buyer" decides to take a joy ride and abandons your car, it's easier to retrieve if you have an extra key.
Keep the test-drive short and go through populated areas. Most buyers don't expect a long test-drive. If your buyer wants more time, let him ask you for it.
Negotiation and Sale
If the person is serious about buying the car, he will want to negotiate the price. Here are a few tips to make sure that transaction goes smoothly:
Refuse any unusual requests, such as driving the would-be buyer to another location. Often, such a request is framed in terms of getting the money or arranging a loan to finish the sale. Instead, tell the buyer to make his arrangements on his own and call you back when he is ready to conclude the sale.
If the test-drive begins and ends at your home, don't let the prospective buyer into the house. Conduct the transaction at the curb. Have the paperwork ready beforehand and keep the car's title, often called "pink slip," unsigned and out of sight until you have full payment.
Once the deal is complete and the car is out of your hands, immediately file a "release of liability" form with the registry of motor vehicles. Then, if it's used in a crime, you won't be held responsible.
Source: http://www.edmunds.com/sell-car/sell-your-car-safely.html
Published: 03/23/2011 - by Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
People avoid selling their own cars because they don't want to deal with strangers. But it can be done safely.
A man who listed his car for sale on Craigslist is killed by a man who wanted to strip the turbocharger and other parts from the vehicle. A New York man lists his BMW online, only to be stabbed and stuffed into the car's trunk by an ex-con who arranged a meeting on the pretext of buying the vehicle.
Although such stories show the potential danger of private-party used-car sales, don't let these extreme cases deter you. You can safely sell your used car — and maximize its value — by taking the right preventive measures.
Craigslist, one of several sites that facilitate private-party car sales, says that its buyers and sellers complete billions of transactions with an "extremely low" incidence of violent crime. Still, selling your car does put you at risk of fraud, scams, robbery and possible personal attacks.
The safety advice in this article comes from the police and my own personal experience selling more than 50 cars from Edmunds' long-term test fleet. There's also another very knowledgeable but less obvious source of good tips: real-estate agents. They often meet strangers to arrange a sale and sometimes the transactions put them in vulnerable positions. Just like private-party car sellers.
The Big 4 Tips for Car-Selling Safety
1. Vet callers thoroughly. When Steve Goddard, former president of the California Association of Realtors, takes a call from someone he's never met, he makes sure the caller is serious about buying a property and isn't trying to lure him into a trap to rob him. "I ask them lots of questions about what they are looking for and what their needs are," he says. "The more I engage them in conversation, the more you get a feel for them."
2. Don't go to a meeting alone. It's that simple, says Rico Fernandez, a sergeant with the Long Beach Police Department in California. "Take someone with you. People are less apt to harm you if there is someone else there."
3. Meet in a public place. Goddard says that when he meets someone for the first time, he does so at his office. While you can't do that when you're selling a car, you can arrange to meet would-be buyers in a public place, such as a shopping mall parking lot.
4. Trust your gut. Qualifying callers is a combination of intuition and experience, Goddard says. And if you're not comfortable meeting with strangers under any circumstances, you should turn the sale over to an auto broker or trade in the vehicle. You'll have to accept that you might not get the best deal, but peace of mind is priceless. So is your life.
Screening 101
If you do a good job screening buyers before you meet them face-to-face, selling your car will go much more smoothly. Listing your car on Craigslist or Autotrader.com will bring e-mails, text messages and calls from interested parties. Use your intuition to spot anything suspicious about these prospective buyers:
Don't be overly eager for a sale or you might miss a warning sign. If a caller seems suspicious to you, simply hang up.
Only schedule a test-drive with serious buyers you are able to reach by phone. Invite questions when you talk with them. This prevents you from having to show the car to someone who isn't really interested, or someone you'd rather not deal with. If the caller doesn't seem to know what to ask, volunteer the basics about the car: year, make, model, color, number of doors, number of miles on the car and its key features.
Beware of professional buyers who just want to "flip" cars, which means reselling them quickly at a profit. Flippers bargain aggressively. You can usually identify these callers because they quickly want to get to your lowest selling price. If you have doubts, ask them if they're buying to resell. While flippers might not pose a hazard to your personal safety, it's better to avoid dealing with them.
Ask who is coming on the test-drive. Evasive answers might indicate that the caller is setting up a trap.
Tell the caller you will want to see a driver license before the test-drive. This might discourage anyone with criminal intentions from going any further.
On the Test-Drive
When you ask to see the buyer's driver license before the test-drive, make a copy of it, if possible, and leave it with a third party.
Have a friend or family member come along with you. If no one is available, at the very least let someone know where you are going and with whom you're meeting.
Take your cell phone with you so you can call for help if anything goes wrong. If you are suspicious and don't want the would-be buyer to know that, arrange a code word beforehand with a friend or family member. Using the code word will be your way of telling your friend you need help.
Meet prospective buyers during the day in a public area such as the parking lot of a mall. Park the car in a high traffic area where people can see you.
Don't leave any valuables in the car on the test-drive. Don't leave your wallet in the center console.
Accompany the buyer on the test-drive. This ensures that he can't just drive off with your car, never to be seen again. Furthermore, the buyer may be unfamiliar with the area and will need directions for the test-drive.
If for some reason you can't ride along, don't give your only car key to the prospective buyer. If the "buyer" decides to take a joy ride and abandons your car, it's easier to retrieve if you have an extra key.
Keep the test-drive short and go through populated areas. Most buyers don't expect a long test-drive. If your buyer wants more time, let him ask you for it.
Negotiation and Sale
If the person is serious about buying the car, he will want to negotiate the price. Here are a few tips to make sure that transaction goes smoothly:
Refuse any unusual requests, such as driving the would-be buyer to another location. Often, such a request is framed in terms of getting the money or arranging a loan to finish the sale. Instead, tell the buyer to make his arrangements on his own and call you back when he is ready to conclude the sale.
If the test-drive begins and ends at your home, don't let the prospective buyer into the house. Conduct the transaction at the curb. Have the paperwork ready beforehand and keep the car's title, often called "pink slip," unsigned and out of sight until you have full payment.
Once the deal is complete and the car is out of your hands, immediately file a "release of liability" form with the registry of motor vehicles. Then, if it's used in a crime, you won't be held responsible.
Source: http://www.edmunds.com/sell-car/sell-your-car-safely.html
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Caribbean Potholes: It's a jungle out there
I thought that I would spend some time educating the world on real potholes as found in the Caribbean. So do enjoy our take on this whole pothole debacle.
Auto123: Spring is generally an ebullient time for car buffs. The sleek, gorgeous models start coming out of hibernation, the race tracks open for the season, and you can finally crack open those windows and rejoice at the feel of the wind whipping through your hair – until you slam into a pothole, sworn enemy of drivers everywhere.
Caribbean: For one, there is no spring in the Caribbean. We have the Dry Season from January to June and the Wet Season from July to December. Sometimes the Dry Season is somewhat wet and other times it's bone dry.
And in the Caribbean, Trinidad specifically you are not so foolish to have your foot planted on the accelerator and zoom zooming along a road to be caught unawares with a pothole arising from the asphalt like a Phoenix. No we don't do that here.
In the Caribbean, potholes have mailing addresses. They get electricity and water and sometimes digital cable tv available where they are. Potholes here pay bills, you meet them in the supermarket and say howdy. They are cordial and introduce themselves to you soon after you have gotten a new vehicle.
In the Caribbean, potholes are legendary. They have full celebrity status along with the requisite Facebook pages. Newly spawned potholes Tweet about themselves and their roadworthy lineage on Twitter.
In the Caribbean we have Angry Potholes who can stop traffic on major roads and highways. Our traffic issues aren't caused solely by too many vehicles, it's La Pothole Cosa Nostra.
Auto123: Basically, potholes are formed from cracks in the pavement caused by heat and the stress put on our roads by cars driving over them. The more vehicles on the road, and the heavier they are, the more potholes will crop up.
Caribbean: This is true here as well. We have many a truck worsening the situations.
And this is just my conspiracy theory, but I believe in Trinidad the Water Company, the Works Ministry and La Pothole Cosa Nostra are in collusion to go forth and populate the roads of the nation with pothole after pothole.
How else can you explain that every time there is a newly paved stretch of road it immediately requires archaeological excavation to locate "leaks" that have magically appeared only After the road is paved?
Auto123: They fill up with snow and rain, which lodges under the asphalt in a layer of dust and compacted gravel. When temperatures drop below 0°C, these accumulations freeze and expand, pushing the dust and gravel back. When the weather becomes milder, the ice melts and leaves empty spaces under the road. With time, the surface becomes so thin that it collapses, leaving behind holes that can be seen with the naked eye. If the holes aren’t filled in, they will expand and beget many more, accelerating the process.
Caribbean: In the Caribbean, potholes fill up with dasheen and yam. They carb-load before they head to the gym to lift weights. Temperatures don't drop here they rise but the sometimes clogged drains allow water to settle on the road infrastructure. Within that womb of rising temperatures and semi-stagnant water a new pot-holette is formed with brothers and sisters to soon follow.
Auto123: What to do when the inevitable occurs?
Because driving through craters can damage your car’s suspension components, the vast majority of motorists attempt to deftly zigzag between potholes, an eminently simple and efficient solution that unfortunately can’t always be used.
Caribbean: What to do they ask? Ha! You run! One dares not drive through a pothole here casually. I know of a pothole with Navy Seal training that grabbed hold of a wheel of a car, did a special maneuver and pushed the shock head and shock through the bonnet of a car.
Auto123: So how can you prevent damage when faced with the inevitable?
Caribbean: You pray, plain and simple.
Auto123: Entering a crater causes more destruction than exiting it, so it’s better to slow down as much as possible before driving into a pothole. However, you shouldn’t apply the brakes once you’ve entered the pothole, because a locked wheel will deteriorate much more willingly than one that is moving.
You also have to be alert and evaluate the breadth of the pothole itself. The longer it is, the more destructive it will be. It’s vital to consider the diameter and width of your tires as well. The smaller they are, the harder they’ll fall. Finally, before any outing, make sure your tires are properly inflated according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Caribbean: You see all those considerations, they only work when it's one pothole per 1000 miles on a road. In the Caribbean we have potholes spawning in rapid fire succession. You're not getting a chance to have engineers scan and analyse the dimension results and provide feedback that will adjust your driving style.
In the Caribbean in some places we have potholes within potholes. Yeah it's like Inception. In other places we have patches of road amidst a bevy of potholes. So if you're in the Caribbean sometime in the future, prepare yourself for a mix of good roads and those of the cheese grater variety.
Original Article Source: http://www.auto123.com/en/news/car-news/potholes-a-survival-guide?artid=129051&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_medium=social-media&utm_campaign=blog-en
MyRX7Story Note: This article was meant to take a humorous look at a serious issue that affects many drivers and their cars within the Caribbean. I know that the respective agencies responsible for the roads are doing what they can to alleviate the situation, but just a reminder that we as drivers are still experiencing some problems.
Auto123: Spring is generally an ebullient time for car buffs. The sleek, gorgeous models start coming out of hibernation, the race tracks open for the season, and you can finally crack open those windows and rejoice at the feel of the wind whipping through your hair – until you slam into a pothole, sworn enemy of drivers everywhere.
Caribbean: For one, there is no spring in the Caribbean. We have the Dry Season from January to June and the Wet Season from July to December. Sometimes the Dry Season is somewhat wet and other times it's bone dry.
And in the Caribbean, Trinidad specifically you are not so foolish to have your foot planted on the accelerator and zoom zooming along a road to be caught unawares with a pothole arising from the asphalt like a Phoenix. No we don't do that here.
In the Caribbean, potholes have mailing addresses. They get electricity and water and sometimes digital cable tv available where they are. Potholes here pay bills, you meet them in the supermarket and say howdy. They are cordial and introduce themselves to you soon after you have gotten a new vehicle.
In the Caribbean, potholes are legendary. They have full celebrity status along with the requisite Facebook pages. Newly spawned potholes Tweet about themselves and their roadworthy lineage on Twitter.
In the Caribbean we have Angry Potholes who can stop traffic on major roads and highways. Our traffic issues aren't caused solely by too many vehicles, it's La Pothole Cosa Nostra.
Auto123: Basically, potholes are formed from cracks in the pavement caused by heat and the stress put on our roads by cars driving over them. The more vehicles on the road, and the heavier they are, the more potholes will crop up.
Caribbean: This is true here as well. We have many a truck worsening the situations.
And this is just my conspiracy theory, but I believe in Trinidad the Water Company, the Works Ministry and La Pothole Cosa Nostra are in collusion to go forth and populate the roads of the nation with pothole after pothole.
How else can you explain that every time there is a newly paved stretch of road it immediately requires archaeological excavation to locate "leaks" that have magically appeared only After the road is paved?
Auto123: They fill up with snow and rain, which lodges under the asphalt in a layer of dust and compacted gravel. When temperatures drop below 0°C, these accumulations freeze and expand, pushing the dust and gravel back. When the weather becomes milder, the ice melts and leaves empty spaces under the road. With time, the surface becomes so thin that it collapses, leaving behind holes that can be seen with the naked eye. If the holes aren’t filled in, they will expand and beget many more, accelerating the process.
Caribbean: In the Caribbean, potholes fill up with dasheen and yam. They carb-load before they head to the gym to lift weights. Temperatures don't drop here they rise but the sometimes clogged drains allow water to settle on the road infrastructure. Within that womb of rising temperatures and semi-stagnant water a new pot-holette is formed with brothers and sisters to soon follow.
Auto123: What to do when the inevitable occurs?
Because driving through craters can damage your car’s suspension components, the vast majority of motorists attempt to deftly zigzag between potholes, an eminently simple and efficient solution that unfortunately can’t always be used.
Caribbean: What to do they ask? Ha! You run! One dares not drive through a pothole here casually. I know of a pothole with Navy Seal training that grabbed hold of a wheel of a car, did a special maneuver and pushed the shock head and shock through the bonnet of a car.
Auto123: So how can you prevent damage when faced with the inevitable?
Caribbean: You pray, plain and simple.
Auto123: Entering a crater causes more destruction than exiting it, so it’s better to slow down as much as possible before driving into a pothole. However, you shouldn’t apply the brakes once you’ve entered the pothole, because a locked wheel will deteriorate much more willingly than one that is moving.
You also have to be alert and evaluate the breadth of the pothole itself. The longer it is, the more destructive it will be. It’s vital to consider the diameter and width of your tires as well. The smaller they are, the harder they’ll fall. Finally, before any outing, make sure your tires are properly inflated according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Caribbean: You see all those considerations, they only work when it's one pothole per 1000 miles on a road. In the Caribbean we have potholes spawning in rapid fire succession. You're not getting a chance to have engineers scan and analyse the dimension results and provide feedback that will adjust your driving style.
In the Caribbean in some places we have potholes within potholes. Yeah it's like Inception. In other places we have patches of road amidst a bevy of potholes. So if you're in the Caribbean sometime in the future, prepare yourself for a mix of good roads and those of the cheese grater variety.
Original Article Source: http://www.auto123.com/en/news/car-news/potholes-a-survival-guide?artid=129051&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_medium=social-media&utm_campaign=blog-en
MyRX7Story Note: This article was meant to take a humorous look at a serious issue that affects many drivers and their cars within the Caribbean. I know that the respective agencies responsible for the roads are doing what they can to alleviate the situation, but just a reminder that we as drivers are still experiencing some problems.
Potholes: A Survival Guide (Auto123)
Potholes: A Survival Guide
By Auto123.com,
Spring is generally an ebullient time for car buffs. The sleek, gorgeous models start coming out of hibernation, the race tracks open for the season, and you can finally crack open those windows and rejoice at the feel of the wind whipping through your hair – until you slam into a pothole, sworn enemy of drivers everywhere.
Basically, potholes are formed from cracks in the pavement caused by heat and the stress put on our roads by cars driving over them. The more vehicles on the road, and the heavier they are, the more potholes will crop up.
They fill up with snow and rain, which lodges under the asphalt in a layer of dust and compacted gravel. When temperatures drop below 0°C, these accumulations freeze and expand, pushing the dust and gravel back. When the weather becomes milder, the ice melts and leaves empty spaces under the road. With time, the surface becomes so thin that it collapses, leaving behind holes that can be seen with the naked eye. If the holes aren’t filled in, they will expand and beget many more, accelerating the process.
What to do when the inevitable occurs?
Because driving through craters can damage your car’s suspension components, the vast majority of motorists attempt to deftly zigzag between potholes, an eminently simple and efficient solution that unfortunately can’t always be used.
So how can you prevent damage when faced with the inevitable?
Entering a crater causes more destruction than exiting it, so it’s better to slow down as much as possible before driving into a pothole. However, you shouldn’t apply the brakes once you’ve entered the pothole, because a locked wheel will deteriorate much more willingly than one that is moving.
You also have to be alert and evaluate the breadth of the pothole itself. The longer it is, the more destructive it will be. It’s vital to consider the diameter and width of your tires as well. The smaller they are, the harder they’ll fall. Finally, before any outing, make sure your tires are properly inflated according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Article Source: http://www.auto123.com/en/news/car-news/potholes-a-survival-guide?artid=129051&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_medium=social-media&utm_campaign=blog-en
By Auto123.com,
Spring is generally an ebullient time for car buffs. The sleek, gorgeous models start coming out of hibernation, the race tracks open for the season, and you can finally crack open those windows and rejoice at the feel of the wind whipping through your hair – until you slam into a pothole, sworn enemy of drivers everywhere.
Basically, potholes are formed from cracks in the pavement caused by heat and the stress put on our roads by cars driving over them. The more vehicles on the road, and the heavier they are, the more potholes will crop up.
They fill up with snow and rain, which lodges under the asphalt in a layer of dust and compacted gravel. When temperatures drop below 0°C, these accumulations freeze and expand, pushing the dust and gravel back. When the weather becomes milder, the ice melts and leaves empty spaces under the road. With time, the surface becomes so thin that it collapses, leaving behind holes that can be seen with the naked eye. If the holes aren’t filled in, they will expand and beget many more, accelerating the process.
What to do when the inevitable occurs?
Because driving through craters can damage your car’s suspension components, the vast majority of motorists attempt to deftly zigzag between potholes, an eminently simple and efficient solution that unfortunately can’t always be used.
So how can you prevent damage when faced with the inevitable?
Entering a crater causes more destruction than exiting it, so it’s better to slow down as much as possible before driving into a pothole. However, you shouldn’t apply the brakes once you’ve entered the pothole, because a locked wheel will deteriorate much more willingly than one that is moving.
You also have to be alert and evaluate the breadth of the pothole itself. The longer it is, the more destructive it will be. It’s vital to consider the diameter and width of your tires as well. The smaller they are, the harder they’ll fall. Finally, before any outing, make sure your tires are properly inflated according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Article Source: http://www.auto123.com/en/news/car-news/potholes-a-survival-guide?artid=129051&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_medium=social-media&utm_campaign=blog-en
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
How Regular Maintenance Helps You Avoid Costly Car Problems
Sometimes people hesitate to perform regular maintenance on their vehicles. They think, "It's working fine right now, so why would I spend time and money on it?"
However, it's the regular maintenance that is a key factor in keeping your vehicle running properly. Without it, you could find yourself facing costly car repairs, many of which could have been prevented with the proper care.
So what parts of your car should be getting a regular checkup? Read through the six steps below to make sure you're covering your bases and keeping your car in good shape.
Six Car Maintenance Steps You Don't Want to Skip
1) Oil changes. Getting your oil changed every 3,000 is a must for keeping your car in good working condition. If your oil ever runs out you risk damaging your car permanently, so don't pass up this necessary step.
2) Windshield essentials. Keeping your windshield clean will help it stay in good condition for years to come. You will probably need to replace your windshield wipers every 6-12 months. If they are leaving streaks, it's a good sign they need to be replaced. Windshield washer fluid and the accompanying nozzles should be checked monthly for proper operation.
3) Tires. Your tires are responsible for many of your car's operations, so it's essential to keep them in good condition. Two of the things you want to regularly check are tire pressure and tire tread. Your manufacturer's manual should tell you how often to check the pressure, but it's a good idea to do it monthly in cold temperatures. Have your tire treads checked every time you get an oil change to make sure they are being evenly worn down.
4) The engine. Most people aren't going to check their own engines for proper functionality, but you can check your engine air filter for cleanliness. Every six months or 7,500 miles you should check the air filter to see how dirty it is. If you can hold it up to a light bulb and still see through most of it, it's clean enough to function properly.
5) The battery. Every few months - and more frequently in cold weather - you should check your battery cables to make sure they are securely attached to their terminals. Clean any corrosion from the terminals themselves.
6) Coolant levels. You always want your coolant level to be between the low and the high markings on the semi-transparent bottle that holds it. Once your engine is cool you can open the hood to check the level. If it's too low, simply unscrew the cap and add some more.
Keep your car in great condition by paying attention to these details and performing regular maintenance where needed. You might hesitate to pay for these things in the moment, but they are much less expensive than a major car repair down the road.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kris_Carlson
However, it's the regular maintenance that is a key factor in keeping your vehicle running properly. Without it, you could find yourself facing costly car repairs, many of which could have been prevented with the proper care.
So what parts of your car should be getting a regular checkup? Read through the six steps below to make sure you're covering your bases and keeping your car in good shape.
Six Car Maintenance Steps You Don't Want to Skip
1) Oil changes. Getting your oil changed every 3,000 is a must for keeping your car in good working condition. If your oil ever runs out you risk damaging your car permanently, so don't pass up this necessary step.
2) Windshield essentials. Keeping your windshield clean will help it stay in good condition for years to come. You will probably need to replace your windshield wipers every 6-12 months. If they are leaving streaks, it's a good sign they need to be replaced. Windshield washer fluid and the accompanying nozzles should be checked monthly for proper operation.
3) Tires. Your tires are responsible for many of your car's operations, so it's essential to keep them in good condition. Two of the things you want to regularly check are tire pressure and tire tread. Your manufacturer's manual should tell you how often to check the pressure, but it's a good idea to do it monthly in cold temperatures. Have your tire treads checked every time you get an oil change to make sure they are being evenly worn down.
4) The engine. Most people aren't going to check their own engines for proper functionality, but you can check your engine air filter for cleanliness. Every six months or 7,500 miles you should check the air filter to see how dirty it is. If you can hold it up to a light bulb and still see through most of it, it's clean enough to function properly.
5) The battery. Every few months - and more frequently in cold weather - you should check your battery cables to make sure they are securely attached to their terminals. Clean any corrosion from the terminals themselves.
6) Coolant levels. You always want your coolant level to be between the low and the high markings on the semi-transparent bottle that holds it. Once your engine is cool you can open the hood to check the level. If it's too low, simply unscrew the cap and add some more.
Keep your car in great condition by paying attention to these details and performing regular maintenance where needed. You might hesitate to pay for these things in the moment, but they are much less expensive than a major car repair down the road.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kris_Carlson
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
AutoTechWorld Tips for better gas mileage for RX7 owners.
AutoTechWorld Tips for better gas mileage for RX7 owners.
Drive smoother:
Non Rotary: Be gentle with your gas pedal and your brakes.
RX7 Onwer: What do you mean gentle? Like with a brick on the pedal? All RX7 owners don't use brakes unless absolutely necessary. We downshift to slow down.
Non Rotary: There's no reason to speed up to a red light just to slam on the brakes. Aggressive driving will lower your gas mileage.
RX7 Owner: We don't speed up to the red light. We're coming to a stop after racing a Honda owner and showing him who is the king of the road.
Aggressive driving? - Is there any other?
Slow down:
Non Rotary: Most vehicles get the best fuel efficiency between 45 and 55 miles per hour. Driving more than 60 mph can cut fuel efficiency 7% to 23%.
RX7 Owner: We're just getting comfy in 2nd gear at 45 miles per hour. How can we stay stuck in 2nd?
Reduce idling:
Non Rotary: Turn off your engine if you're waiting for more than 20 seconds. Idling wastes more gas than turning off your engine and restarting it.
RX7 Owner: Once you've ported idling while waiting is the least of our problems. I had a bridgeported 12a that used to idle at 2k rpm lol.
Use lower grade fuel:
Non Rotary: Regular unleaded fuel won't hurt most vehicles even if premium unleaded fuel is required. Unless your engine starts to knock or ping when using a lower-grade fuel, stick to regular.
RX7 Owner: Can't fool us with this one. We won't hear the pinging with the exhaust so better safe than sorry and let's throw in some octane booster just in case.
Remove excess weight:
Non Rotary: An extra 100 pounds sitting in the trunk or back seat can reduce fuel economy by as much as 2%.
RX7 Owner: The extra 100 pounds is the tool kit and spares just in case we break down somewhere.
Turn on the ventilator and turn off the air conditioning:
Non Rotary: The most efficient way to cool your car is with the air that comes in through your flow-through ventilator. Air conditioning or open windows (because of the drag) make your vehicle less fuel-efficient. Driving fast with the windows open can burn more fuel than the air conditioner.
RX7 Owner: Air conditioning wasn't invented for RX7s. The fact that we can get our windows to go up when we're down driving is a miraculous achievement in itself. We don't need the added luxuries.
Replace or tighten the gas cap:
Non Rotary: Fuel evaporates through gas caps with broken or weak seals, potentially reducing your efficiency by 2%.
RX7 Owner: No problems here, our gas caps must be the only thing with strong seals. But we're running rich so much that the fuel still evaporates.
Keep the tires inflated:
Non Rotary: Tires that are not properly inflated have a higher rolling resistance, which reduces efficiency. Keeping tires inflated to the proper pressure can improve gas mileage by up to 3.3%.
RX7 Owner: Since we're not driving around in slicks we need just a little less air pressure in preparation for the next impromptu race.
Change the oil:
Non Rotary: Energy-conserving or synthetic motor oil can reduce engine friction, improving efficiency by as much as 2%.
RX7 Owner: Don't change the oil, plan to change the engine. Talk done.
Replace the spark plugs:
Non Rotary: Misfiring spark plugs can reduce fuel efficiency by as much as 30%
RX7 Owner: We may backfire but we never misfire.
Hope you've enjoyed the contrast :)
Drive smoother:
Non Rotary: Be gentle with your gas pedal and your brakes.
RX7 Onwer: What do you mean gentle? Like with a brick on the pedal? All RX7 owners don't use brakes unless absolutely necessary. We downshift to slow down.
Non Rotary: There's no reason to speed up to a red light just to slam on the brakes. Aggressive driving will lower your gas mileage.
RX7 Owner: We don't speed up to the red light. We're coming to a stop after racing a Honda owner and showing him who is the king of the road.
Aggressive driving? - Is there any other?
Slow down:
Non Rotary: Most vehicles get the best fuel efficiency between 45 and 55 miles per hour. Driving more than 60 mph can cut fuel efficiency 7% to 23%.
RX7 Owner: We're just getting comfy in 2nd gear at 45 miles per hour. How can we stay stuck in 2nd?
Reduce idling:
Non Rotary: Turn off your engine if you're waiting for more than 20 seconds. Idling wastes more gas than turning off your engine and restarting it.
RX7 Owner: Once you've ported idling while waiting is the least of our problems. I had a bridgeported 12a that used to idle at 2k rpm lol.
Use lower grade fuel:
Non Rotary: Regular unleaded fuel won't hurt most vehicles even if premium unleaded fuel is required. Unless your engine starts to knock or ping when using a lower-grade fuel, stick to regular.
RX7 Owner: Can't fool us with this one. We won't hear the pinging with the exhaust so better safe than sorry and let's throw in some octane booster just in case.
Remove excess weight:
Non Rotary: An extra 100 pounds sitting in the trunk or back seat can reduce fuel economy by as much as 2%.
RX7 Owner: The extra 100 pounds is the tool kit and spares just in case we break down somewhere.
Turn on the ventilator and turn off the air conditioning:
Non Rotary: The most efficient way to cool your car is with the air that comes in through your flow-through ventilator. Air conditioning or open windows (because of the drag) make your vehicle less fuel-efficient. Driving fast with the windows open can burn more fuel than the air conditioner.
RX7 Owner: Air conditioning wasn't invented for RX7s. The fact that we can get our windows to go up when we're down driving is a miraculous achievement in itself. We don't need the added luxuries.
Replace or tighten the gas cap:
Non Rotary: Fuel evaporates through gas caps with broken or weak seals, potentially reducing your efficiency by 2%.
RX7 Owner: No problems here, our gas caps must be the only thing with strong seals. But we're running rich so much that the fuel still evaporates.
Keep the tires inflated:
Non Rotary: Tires that are not properly inflated have a higher rolling resistance, which reduces efficiency. Keeping tires inflated to the proper pressure can improve gas mileage by up to 3.3%.
RX7 Owner: Since we're not driving around in slicks we need just a little less air pressure in preparation for the next impromptu race.
Change the oil:
Non Rotary: Energy-conserving or synthetic motor oil can reduce engine friction, improving efficiency by as much as 2%.
RX7 Owner: Don't change the oil, plan to change the engine. Talk done.
Replace the spark plugs:
Non Rotary: Misfiring spark plugs can reduce fuel efficiency by as much as 30%
RX7 Owner: We may backfire but we never misfire.
Hope you've enjoyed the contrast :)
Tips to get better gas mileage
Tips from the LA Times
Here are some easy ways to stretch more mileage from your vehicle from auto information companies TrueCar.com and AutoMD.com:
Drive smoother:
Be gentle with your gas pedal and your brakes. There's no reason to speed up to a red light just to slam on the brakes. Aggressive driving will lower your gas mileage.
Slow down:
Most vehicles get the best fuel efficiency between 45 and 55 miles per hour. Driving more than 60 mph can cut fuel efficiency 7% to 23%.
Reduce idling:
Turn off your engine if you're waiting for more than 20 seconds. Idling wastes more gas than turning off your engine and restarting it.
Use lower grade fuel:
Regular unleaded fuel won't hurt most vehicles even if premium unleaded fuel is required. Unless your engine starts to knock or ping when using a lower-grade fuel, stick to regular.
Remove excess weight:
An extra 100 pounds sitting in the trunk or back seat can reduce fuel economy by as much as 2%.
Turn on the ventilator and turn off the air conditioning:
The most efficient way to cool your car is with the air that comes in through your flow-through ventilator. Air conditioning or open windows (because of the drag) make your vehicle less fuel-efficient. Driving fast with the windows open can burn more fuel than the air conditioner.
Replace or tighten the gas cap:
Fuel evaporates through gas caps with broken or weak seals, potentially reducing your efficiency by 2%.
Keep the tires inflated:
Tires that are not properly inflated have a higher rolling resistance, which reduces efficiency. Keeping tires inflated to the proper pressure can improve gas mileage by up to 3.3%.
Change the oil:
Energy-conserving or synthetic motor oil can reduce engine friction, improving efficiency by as much as 2%.
Replace the spark plugs:
Misfiring spark plugs can reduce fuel efficiency by as much as 30%
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/money_co/2011/03/tips-to-get-better-gas-mileage.html
Here are some easy ways to stretch more mileage from your vehicle from auto information companies TrueCar.com and AutoMD.com:
Drive smoother:
Be gentle with your gas pedal and your brakes. There's no reason to speed up to a red light just to slam on the brakes. Aggressive driving will lower your gas mileage.
Slow down:
Most vehicles get the best fuel efficiency between 45 and 55 miles per hour. Driving more than 60 mph can cut fuel efficiency 7% to 23%.
Reduce idling:
Turn off your engine if you're waiting for more than 20 seconds. Idling wastes more gas than turning off your engine and restarting it.
Use lower grade fuel:
Regular unleaded fuel won't hurt most vehicles even if premium unleaded fuel is required. Unless your engine starts to knock or ping when using a lower-grade fuel, stick to regular.
Remove excess weight:
An extra 100 pounds sitting in the trunk or back seat can reduce fuel economy by as much as 2%.
Turn on the ventilator and turn off the air conditioning:
The most efficient way to cool your car is with the air that comes in through your flow-through ventilator. Air conditioning or open windows (because of the drag) make your vehicle less fuel-efficient. Driving fast with the windows open can burn more fuel than the air conditioner.
Replace or tighten the gas cap:
Fuel evaporates through gas caps with broken or weak seals, potentially reducing your efficiency by 2%.
Keep the tires inflated:
Tires that are not properly inflated have a higher rolling resistance, which reduces efficiency. Keeping tires inflated to the proper pressure can improve gas mileage by up to 3.3%.
Change the oil:
Energy-conserving or synthetic motor oil can reduce engine friction, improving efficiency by as much as 2%.
Replace the spark plugs:
Misfiring spark plugs can reduce fuel efficiency by as much as 30%
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/money_co/2011/03/tips-to-get-better-gas-mileage.html
Sunday, March 6, 2011
The science of traffic jams explained in new infographic
This is a very informative article discussing how traffic jams are started. Check it out and hopefully it helps us understand how to adjust our behaviour whilst behind the wheel.
http://www.caradvice.com.au/108526/the-science-of-traffic-jams-explained-in-new-infographic
http://www.caradvice.com.au/108526/the-science-of-traffic-jams-explained-in-new-infographic
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
German RSC Ready to Sell 4Rotor Super Car
Rotary Super Cars Germany is a young company with the goal of offering symbiosis of high performance vehicles and active environment to create new benchmarks in the areas, power efficiency, value for money or the use of high-tech materials.
Since there is no vehicle that meets all these requirements, the construction of the RSC Raptor GT™ started in 2009. Systems such as the VAS (variable aerodynamic system) were developed and brought to small series production. This vehicle meets all requirements or exceed them. With enthusiasm and passion of our team involved in the development and production of the Raptor GT™. We guarantee the best workmanship and highest individuality. The selective use of proven components increases the active/passive safety while reducing production costs, which ultimately benefits every buyer.
With the Raptor GT™, we give our customers the opportunity to experience the unique combination of high end components and environmental protection on the roads and racetracks of the world. The Raptor GT™ doesn't follow the standard in many areas, he goes a very unique way with his drive and approach design. Each vehicle is handmade and unique, which corresponds exactly to the needs and wishes of the owner.
Drivetrain:
The RSC Raptor ™ GT S, RS, RSR and N-Spec does not have a conventional drive system as used in most of today's super sports cars. He has a self-developed and heavily modified, based on parts of the Mazda 13B MSP, high-performance engine with four rotors (4-Rotor rotary engine) and, depending on the model, a water-to-air intercooled turbo or biturbo system. This engine is the heart of the RSC Raptor GT™ and gives him his very special temperament. The power output of a rotary engine uniformly grows with increasing rpm. The high-performance engine in the RSC Raptor GT™ has the redline set depending on the selected driving mode, up to 7,500 rpm or 9000 rpm. The fuel E85 is used, which is produced from rapeseed. By using this fuel to reduce the emissions by about 90% is feasible.
The sequential 8-speed RSC R-SHIFT transmission in the RSC Raptor GT™ is controlled by a hydraulic shift system with shift times of 25-35 milliseconds. Furthermore, each RSC Raptor GT™ has a carbon-aluminum drive shaft, and an electronically controlled rear axle differential.
The powertrain is controlled by an engine management system, specifically developed from Bosch Engineering GmbH for the RSC Raptor GT™, including a complete electronic system consisting of ESP, ABS, EBD, VAS, R-TRAC (traction control), R-DIFF (electronic differential) and a Launch Control. The RSC Raptor GT™ RSR and N-Spec also has an active suspension. All electronic systems can be easily operated via the buttons on the steering wheel.
Body/Chassis:
Depending on the model the body of the RSC Raptor GT™ is of 80% glass fiber or carbon fiber and differs in details in the form and aerodynamics. Furthermore a wide range of special equipment is available. Starting with the rims, complete body equipment packages up to the painting - the customer has no limits.
The RSC Raptor GT™ also has the RSC VAS™ (Variable Aerodynamic System), a system that changes the aerodynamics and the aerodynamic properties of the RSC Raptor GT™ to generate more downforce at high speeds. This system include SBS (Speed Brake System).
Interior:
The RSC Raptor GT™ has two 7" full-graphic-Diyplays, where various telemetry data such as speed, mileage, temperatures, pressures, and the chosen vehicle settings and many other data, are available. These displays create exciting visual effects that show the high-tech genes of the RSC Raptor GT™. They are placed on the left and right of the large 5" tachometer with digital gear indicator and shift light. The driver is always looking at the relevant information and driving a RSC Raptor GT™ becomes a special experience.
The cockpit offers an unique combination of high-quality materials like carbon fiber, brushed aluminum and various types of leather. Many interior equipment packages are available. There also no limits for the customer.
Production levels of the RSC Raptor GT range from the base 500 hp 2.6L 4 rotor rotary to 800 hp turbo and 1.200 hp twin turbo variants. The cars are built in Germany. They are available in left- and right-hand drive configuration.
VelociRaptor:
The second car which is currently in the construction phase. The main facts: Mid-engine, AWD, 8-speed sequential RSC R-SHIFT transmission, RSC VAS, 90% carbon fiber, over 1.200 hp and a weight under 1.100 kg.
This car will set new benchmarks...
Rotary Super Cars Germany
(+49)1511 75 500 98
Read more: http://www.worldcarfans.com/110100528830/rotary-super-cars-unveils-the-raptor-gt#ixzz11VugzrTl
Since there is no vehicle that meets all these requirements, the construction of the RSC Raptor GT™ started in 2009. Systems such as the VAS (variable aerodynamic system) were developed and brought to small series production. This vehicle meets all requirements or exceed them. With enthusiasm and passion of our team involved in the development and production of the Raptor GT™. We guarantee the best workmanship and highest individuality. The selective use of proven components increases the active/passive safety while reducing production costs, which ultimately benefits every buyer.
With the Raptor GT™, we give our customers the opportunity to experience the unique combination of high end components and environmental protection on the roads and racetracks of the world. The Raptor GT™ doesn't follow the standard in many areas, he goes a very unique way with his drive and approach design. Each vehicle is handmade and unique, which corresponds exactly to the needs and wishes of the owner.
Drivetrain:
The RSC Raptor ™ GT S, RS, RSR and N-Spec does not have a conventional drive system as used in most of today's super sports cars. He has a self-developed and heavily modified, based on parts of the Mazda 13B MSP, high-performance engine with four rotors (4-Rotor rotary engine) and, depending on the model, a water-to-air intercooled turbo or biturbo system. This engine is the heart of the RSC Raptor GT™ and gives him his very special temperament. The power output of a rotary engine uniformly grows with increasing rpm. The high-performance engine in the RSC Raptor GT™ has the redline set depending on the selected driving mode, up to 7,500 rpm or 9000 rpm. The fuel E85 is used, which is produced from rapeseed. By using this fuel to reduce the emissions by about 90% is feasible.
The sequential 8-speed RSC R-SHIFT transmission in the RSC Raptor GT™ is controlled by a hydraulic shift system with shift times of 25-35 milliseconds. Furthermore, each RSC Raptor GT™ has a carbon-aluminum drive shaft, and an electronically controlled rear axle differential.
The powertrain is controlled by an engine management system, specifically developed from Bosch Engineering GmbH for the RSC Raptor GT™, including a complete electronic system consisting of ESP, ABS, EBD, VAS, R-TRAC (traction control), R-DIFF (electronic differential) and a Launch Control. The RSC Raptor GT™ RSR and N-Spec also has an active suspension. All electronic systems can be easily operated via the buttons on the steering wheel.
Body/Chassis:
Depending on the model the body of the RSC Raptor GT™ is of 80% glass fiber or carbon fiber and differs in details in the form and aerodynamics. Furthermore a wide range of special equipment is available. Starting with the rims, complete body equipment packages up to the painting - the customer has no limits.
The RSC Raptor GT™ also has the RSC VAS™ (Variable Aerodynamic System), a system that changes the aerodynamics and the aerodynamic properties of the RSC Raptor GT™ to generate more downforce at high speeds. This system include SBS (Speed Brake System).
Interior:
The RSC Raptor GT™ has two 7" full-graphic-Diyplays, where various telemetry data such as speed, mileage, temperatures, pressures, and the chosen vehicle settings and many other data, are available. These displays create exciting visual effects that show the high-tech genes of the RSC Raptor GT™. They are placed on the left and right of the large 5" tachometer with digital gear indicator and shift light. The driver is always looking at the relevant information and driving a RSC Raptor GT™ becomes a special experience.
The cockpit offers an unique combination of high-quality materials like carbon fiber, brushed aluminum and various types of leather. Many interior equipment packages are available. There also no limits for the customer.
Production levels of the RSC Raptor GT range from the base 500 hp 2.6L 4 rotor rotary to 800 hp turbo and 1.200 hp twin turbo variants. The cars are built in Germany. They are available in left- and right-hand drive configuration.
VelociRaptor:
The second car which is currently in the construction phase. The main facts: Mid-engine, AWD, 8-speed sequential RSC R-SHIFT transmission, RSC VAS, 90% carbon fiber, over 1.200 hp and a weight under 1.100 kg.
This car will set new benchmarks...
Rotary Super Cars Germany
(+49)1511 75 500 98
Read more: http://www.worldcarfans.com/110100528830/rotary-super-cars-unveils-the-raptor-gt#ixzz11VugzrTl
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Walking Through the Wankel Wilderness
Life seems to happen when you want it not to sometimes.
Circumstances bully you for your time when you'd much prefer they leave you be.
Problems arise in the midst of jubilation and RX7s can and tend to fail at the most inconvenient times.
I don't have any special story or epic tale to tell of me having decimated a V8 muscle car and shown the Mitsu and Subaru boys tail lights for the quarter mile stretch. Nor do I have the experience of maxing out Sarah, spitting fire until the Mazda factory buzzer stopped remembering to tell me I shouldn't be at this speed.
I hadn't gotten there yet.
Yes I knew the car's potential but I just hadn't gotten there.
And so when driving down to work on the highway that morning and I heard this sickening pop from behind me and felt the car lose power and slow down to a near halt and I had to mosey on to the shoulder lane, the last thing on my mind was that the engine had given up the ghost.
I knew what I heard, I knew that I lost power, and I knew that I was getting great trouble to start this engine again.
I also knew the sun was scorchingly hot and I had to get to work.
I tried Anil, to see if he happened to be home but didn't get through.
I didn't have anyone else to call, so I tried and tried and finally got the engine to start.
But it was a very slow, almost funeral march home.
I didn't know what was the issue, so I parked Sarah home and went to work, figuring I'd have to look into that later on.
Even though I didn't know the extent of the damage I knew that the dynamics of the sale transaction I had previously considered had changed without a doubt. What I had no clue about was how much.
There was however one person, who had expressed great interest in Sarah when I had put it on Trinituner, but we had not as yet met for the usual test drive etc.
He was from the South land and said that he and his brother had been to visit Anil the one time that Sarah was there, to get an engine for a project his brother was working on and they saw it at that point.
He apparently had liked the car then and was happy when he saw it go up for sale on the forum.
So he had expressed his interest and I said no problem we'll see how things will work out.
But when this happened, I thought it best to alert him because I knew that the price could not be the same and I didn't know what his interest would be after hearing the news.
Strangely enough he was still interested.
And why is that?
Well as he reminded me the license plate of Sarah is PBG 5531
The license plate of the RX2 RE project that his brother has, PS 5531.
As he put it, it was fate for them to be together.
So since this was part of destiny all we had to do is adjust the pricing.
So we spoke about that and struck this deal in a mixture of online and telephone conversations.
There were only two issues to this agreement.
Firstly, he at that time did not have all the money.
He explained that he and his brother were building a business and they had a shipment coming in about April, this being late January and post the sale of items in that shipment he would be able to complete the purchase.
And the second more weighty matter was, we had never met.
I had only the information shown in the 100 plus page thread on the Mazda forum and the other posts on trinituner to go on.
Either he and his brother were for real or this whole deal was shot.
Either this transaction would be completed and it would be a story to remember or nothing would happen and it would all fade away like dust.
I figured two things.
One I bought this car to learn and so time is on my side in waiting for him to complete his business. Either he is for real or not but either way I'm in no hurry.
Secondly, I really didn't have a secondly, if he wasn't for real then I'd sell to someone else if I couldn't fix the issue.
So that was my rationale at that point.
And trust me lots of persons could not comprehend the decision that seemed simple to me.
Nobody was losing here. Whilst he did his part I would continue mine.
Either after April we linked up and did the deal or not.
It wasn't like he was asking me to hold my breath for six months.
All I had to do now was try to figure out what might be the issue and let time pass.
And so I researched online.
I searched local websites, tried to get contact numbers for different persons.
I hunted I asked, I went and saw some persons.
I did all of this very cautiously mind you, because I knew that not everyone was likely to be honest and reasonable with sharing information.
And time passed, and I learnt more.
Everything pointed to a seal having blown and caused a loss of compression.
So since for the most part the car wasn't moving, I focused on gaining confidence and increasing in my comfort level with automotive mechanical things.
So through that period I accumulated a lot of tools and a great deal of knowledge about cars in general; much more than I had previously.
And this was the point of this whole jumping in all Gung Ho into this rotary business.
To learn about cars in general and survive the learning process.
April came and the shipment arrived as promised. I think it had been delayed by a week and a half or two weeks but it arrived.
I was kept up to date on the progress and the January deal remained in tact.
Some of the initial sales were slow but as before, waiting was not hurting either of us.
What most people, including my parents did not comprehend was my willingness to wait for a virtual stranger.
Truly virtual since my initial introduction had been online.
I tried to explain my reasoning but that fell on deaf ears.
At least they let the car sit in the garage so I knew they didn't think I had completely lost all of my marbles :)
And then one day the required sales were almost complete and the savings were almost there.
And I got a call, shortly before I had to leave the country for a bit.
The guy and his brother and a friend wanted to come up to just see the car before we closed the deal.
If my friends and parents thought I was losing it I figure the same was occurring on his side, cause he'd never met me. Who was to say I was for real?
So we arranged and a Wednesday evening they came up, inspected the car and we talked like we'd known each other for years.
Who was this person and his brother you may ask?
Well none other than Khaleel and Khayam of Maztune.
And their friend who came to make sure everything was on the up and up?
Rana a true rotary enthusiast.
See Maztune's facebook page here Maztune
So I left for vacation and when I came back we closed the deal the Saturday after I came back.
And well that's how I met Maztune and how Sarah got the home she now has in Southern Trinidad.
The real question was how would I continue to learn now that Sarah was gone?
If you like how the story is progressing,
Leave Comments below or
Follow me on Twitter: MyRX7Story
Coming Soon: And there was 2 before 7
Previously:
3rd Gen's a Charm
Sarah's First Service
Bringing Home Sarah (Part II).
Bringing Home Sarah (Part I).
Rotary Owner and Loving It.
Is She The One? (Part II)
Is She The One? (Part I)
Rotary Revealed
Frustrated Wannabe Amateur Tuner
Navigating The Financial Labyrinth
European Exodus
RX7 Genesis
See pics:
My RX7 Story Facebook Page
Follow me on Twitter: MyRX7Story
Email me at safeq@myrx7story.com
Circumstances bully you for your time when you'd much prefer they leave you be.
Problems arise in the midst of jubilation and RX7s can and tend to fail at the most inconvenient times.
I don't have any special story or epic tale to tell of me having decimated a V8 muscle car and shown the Mitsu and Subaru boys tail lights for the quarter mile stretch. Nor do I have the experience of maxing out Sarah, spitting fire until the Mazda factory buzzer stopped remembering to tell me I shouldn't be at this speed.
I hadn't gotten there yet.
Yes I knew the car's potential but I just hadn't gotten there.
And so when driving down to work on the highway that morning and I heard this sickening pop from behind me and felt the car lose power and slow down to a near halt and I had to mosey on to the shoulder lane, the last thing on my mind was that the engine had given up the ghost.
I knew what I heard, I knew that I lost power, and I knew that I was getting great trouble to start this engine again.
I also knew the sun was scorchingly hot and I had to get to work.
I tried Anil, to see if he happened to be home but didn't get through.
I didn't have anyone else to call, so I tried and tried and finally got the engine to start.
But it was a very slow, almost funeral march home.
I didn't know what was the issue, so I parked Sarah home and went to work, figuring I'd have to look into that later on.
Even though I didn't know the extent of the damage I knew that the dynamics of the sale transaction I had previously considered had changed without a doubt. What I had no clue about was how much.
There was however one person, who had expressed great interest in Sarah when I had put it on Trinituner, but we had not as yet met for the usual test drive etc.
He was from the South land and said that he and his brother had been to visit Anil the one time that Sarah was there, to get an engine for a project his brother was working on and they saw it at that point.
He apparently had liked the car then and was happy when he saw it go up for sale on the forum.
So he had expressed his interest and I said no problem we'll see how things will work out.
But when this happened, I thought it best to alert him because I knew that the price could not be the same and I didn't know what his interest would be after hearing the news.
Strangely enough he was still interested.
And why is that?
Well as he reminded me the license plate of Sarah is PBG 5531
The license plate of the RX2 RE project that his brother has, PS 5531.
As he put it, it was fate for them to be together.
So since this was part of destiny all we had to do is adjust the pricing.
So we spoke about that and struck this deal in a mixture of online and telephone conversations.
There were only two issues to this agreement.
Firstly, he at that time did not have all the money.
He explained that he and his brother were building a business and they had a shipment coming in about April, this being late January and post the sale of items in that shipment he would be able to complete the purchase.
And the second more weighty matter was, we had never met.
I had only the information shown in the 100 plus page thread on the Mazda forum and the other posts on trinituner to go on.
Either he and his brother were for real or this whole deal was shot.
Either this transaction would be completed and it would be a story to remember or nothing would happen and it would all fade away like dust.
I figured two things.
One I bought this car to learn and so time is on my side in waiting for him to complete his business. Either he is for real or not but either way I'm in no hurry.
Secondly, I really didn't have a secondly, if he wasn't for real then I'd sell to someone else if I couldn't fix the issue.
So that was my rationale at that point.
And trust me lots of persons could not comprehend the decision that seemed simple to me.
Nobody was losing here. Whilst he did his part I would continue mine.
Either after April we linked up and did the deal or not.
It wasn't like he was asking me to hold my breath for six months.
All I had to do now was try to figure out what might be the issue and let time pass.
And so I researched online.
I searched local websites, tried to get contact numbers for different persons.
I hunted I asked, I went and saw some persons.
I did all of this very cautiously mind you, because I knew that not everyone was likely to be honest and reasonable with sharing information.
And time passed, and I learnt more.
Everything pointed to a seal having blown and caused a loss of compression.
So since for the most part the car wasn't moving, I focused on gaining confidence and increasing in my comfort level with automotive mechanical things.
So through that period I accumulated a lot of tools and a great deal of knowledge about cars in general; much more than I had previously.
And this was the point of this whole jumping in all Gung Ho into this rotary business.
To learn about cars in general and survive the learning process.
April came and the shipment arrived as promised. I think it had been delayed by a week and a half or two weeks but it arrived.
I was kept up to date on the progress and the January deal remained in tact.
Some of the initial sales were slow but as before, waiting was not hurting either of us.
What most people, including my parents did not comprehend was my willingness to wait for a virtual stranger.
Truly virtual since my initial introduction had been online.
I tried to explain my reasoning but that fell on deaf ears.
At least they let the car sit in the garage so I knew they didn't think I had completely lost all of my marbles :)
And then one day the required sales were almost complete and the savings were almost there.
And I got a call, shortly before I had to leave the country for a bit.
The guy and his brother and a friend wanted to come up to just see the car before we closed the deal.
If my friends and parents thought I was losing it I figure the same was occurring on his side, cause he'd never met me. Who was to say I was for real?
So we arranged and a Wednesday evening they came up, inspected the car and we talked like we'd known each other for years.
Who was this person and his brother you may ask?
Well none other than Khaleel and Khayam of Maztune.
And their friend who came to make sure everything was on the up and up?
Rana a true rotary enthusiast.
See Maztune's facebook page here Maztune
So I left for vacation and when I came back we closed the deal the Saturday after I came back.
And well that's how I met Maztune and how Sarah got the home she now has in Southern Trinidad.
The real question was how would I continue to learn now that Sarah was gone?
If you like how the story is progressing,
Leave Comments below or
Follow me on Twitter: MyRX7Story
Coming Soon: And there was 2 before 7
Previously:
3rd Gen's a Charm
Sarah's First Service
Bringing Home Sarah (Part II).
Bringing Home Sarah (Part I).
Rotary Owner and Loving It.
Is She The One? (Part II)
Is She The One? (Part I)
Rotary Revealed
Frustrated Wannabe Amateur Tuner
Navigating The Financial Labyrinth
European Exodus
RX7 Genesis
See pics:
My RX7 Story Facebook Page
Follow me on Twitter: MyRX7Story
Email me at safeq@myrx7story.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)